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After many years of watching from the sideline and getting my feet wet with high-performance driving schools, I’ve finally decided to commit and begin vintage racing.
The nice thing about vintage racing is that you can get going with as little as $10,000 or less, or go crazy and spend millions. In my case, I set a budget of $30,000 for buying and fully preparing a race car. Naturally, it had to be an Alfa Romeo.
I decided to go with a 1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Ti that already had all the necessary modifications to get started in racing:
– Lightened bodywork (i.e. stripped of everything unnecessary including crossmembers, door panels, etc.)
– Alfa Romeo 2 litre motor with hot Petatori cams, Speri head, 11:1 compression, total 186 HP
– Marelliplex electronic ignition
– Shankle headers
– Side exhaust
– Limited Slip Differential
– Race oil pump and oil cooler
– Shankle sway bars
– Sparco race seats and 5-point harnesses
– Ward & Dean springs with Koni shocks
– Upgraded brakes
– Half roll-cage
– Fuel cell
All in, the purchase and setup has cost me $26,000, leaving me enough to eventually fix up the body blemishes and paint it properly.
So, how would you build your ideal vintage racer if you had a $30,000 budget?
Photography by Aaron McKenzie for Petrolicious
I have about $17-19K in a 1973 Super Beetle (including 2 engines), that some friends and I have been endurance racing for the past 4 years. Though technically it is not for “historic” racing, it races in LeMons and ChumpCar. Still our little Beetle has done battle with E30s,big block V8s and old spec miatas at tracks like Daytona, Sebring, Carolina Motorsports and Barber Motorsports. Not bad for a car with one tire in the crusher when we found it!
Interesting article. I built my Alfetta for $12k with pretty much the same equipment you listed. Of course a Super is more valuable and the purchase price must figure into it, I got my Alfetta for free.(really just a shell) The need for speed keeps escalating the cost as I’m now on “phase 2”, more aggressive suspension and more horsepower.
Always glad to see another Alfa vintage racing, please post updates.
Thirty grand?
I’ve finally come to realize that vintage racing is NOT cheap racing. For $5000 (or less) you can build an SCCA-legal car for Improved Touring and be reasonably competitive. The biggest difference is that most vintage classes allow stupid amounts of money to be put into steel cranks, 14:1 CRs, extremely lumpy cams, porting, etc., whereas over in IT, you’re not allowed to do anything to the engine other than B & B. Yes, they do check for the cheats.
Great challenge and love the car. Attempting the same with a ’69 911 right now (though it might creep in a little over $30k by the end of it). Logging progress here: http://customerracer.tumblr.com
Learnt a few lessons over the last year. Don’t get too nostalgic about parts you pull off the car, sell them and recycle the cash. Do as much work yourself as you can (bonus is the education you get along the way). Buy everything you can secondhand (I picked up a full twin-plug set-up and fuel cell from a crash damaged race car way cheaper than new). Don’t worry about the cosmetics, clean and straight is good enough, it’s a race car. And always remember, getting to the start line is the victory you are chasing, not the podium. Build it right, build it to last, but don’t chase this few extra horses or few saved pounds. If, like me, you’re starting out, the driver will need way more tuning than the car anyway…
See you on track…
Those morons over had Drift Garage had some good laughs and built a missile car for under $5000.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAb9NuqGJNs#t=94
I’d take a resto project Triumph GT6, TR6 big valves and ported head, forged crank from Racetorations, triple Webers, all the lightweight Alloy bits from Canley classics I can muster, fibreglass doors, bonnet and boot, rotoflex rear suspension (with the Canley Classics CV conversion) and Magnesium Dunlop Racing alloys.
Should be well under £18,000 (roughly $30,000), including Group44-style livery
A Lovely Lovely choice! We love the grungy race appearance, spend the extra money on painting those wheels gold instead of ‘fixing’ up the bodywork!
Here is a picture of the nicest 105 we have in our club, it’s an absolute pocket rocket, we can list a few things he has done, but there’s a whole lot more that we’re sure he keeps to himself.
• Alfaholic GTA-R conversion kit
• Twin Spark engine
• LSD
•Short ratio box
and it is still road legal!
– Why did you choose to go down the Full Race car path?
I’ve driven this car and yes what a cracking car to enjoy on both the road and track! Very well sorted. A Giulia sedan is definitely the best of both worlds. You can take your family for a spirited Sunday drive and then take it for a burl on the Alfa club track days!. My Super is completely stock but still wonderful fun.
Many will profess that the 105 sedan is actually a better driver than the pretty coupe too!:)
Since I live in the Corvair world, it would have to be Yenko Stinger clone:
A late-model (’65 to ’69) 2-door hardtop [$3k would get me a rust-free, stock example]
After ripping out the interior, I’d buy and an install a SCCA-legal rollcage [$600]
Bolt in a couple racing seats (since I may want to take scare someone besides myself) [$400]
With 5-point harnesses and HANS setup for the driver [$1k]
A full suspension re-do would set me back a couple grand [$2k]
Yenko-style engine lid, spoilers, front and rear [$1k]
I’d build an engine to Stinger specs with suitable tranny upgrades [$7k]
Of course, I’d need a spare drivetrain [$7k)
Gotta’ have a set of mini-lites [$1k]
A set of slicks and a set of rain tires [$1.5k]
I’d spray my own Stinger-inspred paint job [$500]
That’s only $25k, so I can still afford a good, used open trailer and a few tanks of race gas.
It might not be the sexist car in the world but it’s hard to beat the Austin A35 as a starter for historic racing. A real giant killer in it’s day. We have a new control series started by the Historic Racing Drivers Club that provides all the bits to go racing for around £15k. Just buy a good standard car then buy the standard kits of go faster bits and bolt them in.
Details [url=”http://www.moto-build.com/academy_mbr.htmlhttp://”]here[/url]. I’m saving up.
Lovely Alfa! I would spend about $15K total. Start with a well-cared-for, stock, used street vehicle. It would have Ohlins suspension set up for my weight, titanium headers and silencer, carbon fiber wheels and bodywork, Power Commander and free flowing filter, most of which I would find used as well. It would have half the number of wheels as yer Alfa, and I’d call it a Honda CBR600RR. Rest of the money would be spent on track fees and beer…and the occasional visit to the hospital. 😉
I had already planned such a venture for my next track car, although I never executed the plan. I would buy a BMW 635csi in as nice a condition as possible (maybe 6000-8000$) and then gradually modify it with performance parts and safety equipment (another 6000-8000$) and then have a street-legal 15000$ vintage racer eligible for Canada’s G70 class, as well as BMWCCA club racing. With the remaining 15000$, I would register for as many events as possible!
I guess the 30000$ version would involve an E30 M3 or a Porsche 911 SC.
This is a great question to start the morning off! Im not gonna go into detail really about this but id say find yourself a decent handling low weight car that has a nice aftermarket of parts and a good network of people online to help you out if you run into a problem. Maybe a second gen corvair would fit the bill. You can find these cars in good shape for basically nothing. They have a relatively low weight, nice suspension right out the box, easy to work on, nice fan base to help you out online if you need it.